March 2009

Here is a list of the things one could find useful on a trip. These are not specifically in order of importance. I hope you get some ideas! Feel free to add you own must haves.

1. Windex wipes to clean bugs off your facemask. They are very easy to pack.

2. Tire repair kit.

3. Tire slime.

4. Water.

5. Snacks.

[click to continue…]

Removing the rear fairing assembly.

In order to remove the tail light, you have to take off the rear upper fairing. There are about 13 bolts/quick fasteners that you have to remove plus both seats. You should also remove the stock Mudflap if you haven’t already.

1. Remove the seat by taking out the two bolts that hold it down. (There is an allen wrench in the tool kit beneath the rear seat)

Seat Removal

Seat Removal

2. After the rear seat is off, take out the 4 quick fasteners indicated by the green arrows.
Hint: in order to remove them simply unscrew them about half a turn until the top part comes loose them pull them out.

R6 Seat Removed

R6 Seat Removed

Unscrew to detach.

Unscrew to detach.

3. Remove the two quick fasteners indicated by the blue arrows(they are kind of underneath the fairing). In order to remove these types of fasteners, push the middle of them in with a phillips screw driver or a pencil, then pull them out. You SHOULD NOT have to force them.

4. Remove the two quick fasteners and the bolt indicated by the teal arrows. You should also remove the stock mudflap at this time as well if you haven’t already. To do so, disconnect all of the connectors in the area indicated by the purple arrows and take out the four bolts indicated by the yellow arrows.

5. Next remove the four allen bolts on the undertail. They are indicated by red arrows.

Undertail Screws

Undertail Screws

6. Now the tail is ready to come off! There may be another way to remove the tail, but this is how i did it. First pull the two parts indicated by green arrows up over the frame one at a time, you have to stretch the tail section a bit but it’s nothing that will damage it.

Remove as directed to avoid scratching your plastic.

Remove as directed to avoid scratching your plastic.

Next, pull the whole tail section towards the rear of the motorcycle. You will notice that the bottom fairing and upper fairing are interlocked. As you slide the upper fairing towards the back of the motorcycle just work the two pieces appart and remove the upper one. (note: it may be possible to remove the tail light without completely removing the upper part, I’m not sure though.)

7. Now the light is ready to be removed, there are two quick fasteners and a tab holding the light in. Remove the two quick fasteners indicated by red arrows (one is obscured by wires). You also need to unplug the light from the wiring harness. Make sure the light is loose and then pull it out.

Taillight removal.

Taillight removal.

Do you know what exhaust you want for your bike? At least you can listen and see them before you buy.


Missing Vimeo API Consumer Key.

This quick video gives excellent simple instruction on how, why, and when to get your knee down. It all comes down to getting your shoulder down and standing the bike up in the corner.

Courtesy of MCN.

This fellow was trying to implement the above. His challenges may shed some light on problems you may be having.

This How To Guide was written off of a 2000 R6.

The Valves: They are fairly easy really. This is where re-jetting your bike would have helped you, because you will have to take the tank, airbox, carbs, and then some, off the bike. I would say getting the manual is a very good thing for this. I got some helpful info from the board, but there is nothing some good illustration to go with it, so I ended up going and having some stuff copied from my local shops manual. I had to do this, since my manual did not end up coming with the other parts.

After you get the carbs off, you will take a couple minor plastic coverings off so you can see the head(cam) cover. Take your spark plug cables off and take off the cover. You will see the cams and the cam chain. You will need a feeler gauge and you must look at the spec clearances in the manual. Shims are basically small metal pancakes that come in all different sizes. These are what hold your valves in the position they are in. So, when you do a valve job, basically you are just changing shims out. ie changing the size of the shims. I found my clearances to be tight, mostly just in the exhaust, so I went down in the sizes of my shims. Ok, the manual will tell you how to adjust your cams, so they are in the right place for you to measure your clearances. You will have to take the ignition cover off to do this, so you might as well replace the ignition adv. with an adjustable one, and replace that cover gasket and the cam cover gasket as well.

Ok, now that you know the clearences, you unbolt the cams, and lift them up and take the lifters out. The lifters are basicly an upside down bucket that cover your shims. Take those out and then the shim for it. The shim will have a number on it. That is what you must go by to order new ones. After you order the new ones(which the manual will tell you how to order) them you put those in the given slots. Then it’s all about retorquing everything. I didn’t mention this, but you must write down what shims you got and where they are. This way, the next time you go to change them, you will now right away what ones to get. I will make a clearer How To later, so if this is a little confusing don’t worry. Just know that it really isn’t that hard at all, and other than ordering the wrong shims, it’s imposable to screw you’re bike up.