Mod Ideas

I’ve recently become a fan of Ebay. I bought every single one of my Christmas presents with it. Recently I’ve got to thinking about how to get gear and parts for my Yamaha R6 off there. With the economy being slow there’s a lot of ridiculously good deals. I just saw a front and rear stand for $45! Anything you can buy at full price retail it seems you can either find used, or at a reduced price.

Here’s my strategy.

1. Search Ebay products for what you want and sort by ending last. Find your item.

2. Snipe the product using Auction Sniper. They give you free snipes and they don’t steal your Ebay and Paypal info like some of the others. This one hasn’t let me down yet.

Auctiva.com
Fast, Simple, Reliable eBay Auction Tools

Here’s what you can expect to see in the Yamaha R6 Parts listings. I’ve organized these by the auctions ending soonest so don’t wait if you see something you want. They’ve only got a minute or so left.

I want to start off this series by saying thanks to TJ Kastning for contacting Woodcraft about getting involved with R6blog.com.  I always appreciate the opportunity to give back, as the motorcycle industry has been very good to me throughout the years.  Through a number of conversations TJ & I came up with an idea to produce a series of articles that discuss the design process for producing the products that many of you have on your motorcycles.  We will discuss what each product does, the primary design considerations and how these changes affect the bike.

My name is Eric Wood and I am a mechanical engineer, a 20 year road racing veteran, and  the President of Woodcraft Technologies Inc.  I am also the lead instructor for the Penguin Racing School, the oldest motorcycle racing school in the nation.  During my racing career I was fortunate to have ridden for several factory supported teams at the AMA level and was able to gain insight from some of the brightest minds in motorcycle racing.  I also spent several years racing the national circuit as a privateer, working on my own equipment and building motorcycles from the ground up.  During this time, I got to see the best (and worst) of both worlds, and that experience has been extremely valuable to me as I began to develop parts on my own.

We will spend a lot of time talking about function when it comes to the parts we will be breaking down in this series.  Aesthetics are a concern for everyone  (manufacturers and consumers alike), but in the end it is what the product does that really matters to me, and that really matters to most riders who hit the racetrack (both literally and figuratively).  In my opinion, if a product doesn’t do it’s job or it if falls apart the first time you crash, it’s worthless.

The primary design considerations that Woodcraft puts into every part are (1) function – does it do the job it is intended for, (2) durability – will this part hold up in a crash, and (3) repair-ability – making the part so that it requires less labor and is less expensive to replace.  We will talk about these factors with every product we discuss.  Especially today, riders cannot afford to replace expensive parts every time they fall down.

The other equally important consideration that we put into every part is marketability.  For many companies, this process consists of establishing if the a demand for the product and then making sure that they produce a part that is within the expected price range for that particular product.  If they build a decent part and advertise it well, then the product should sell.  At Woodcraft, we like to take this one step further.  The philosophy we adopted here is one that has been used by the very best companies in virtually every industry in the world.  If we can’t give you a logical and persuasive reason why you should buy our product over someone else’s, then we shouldn’t build it. There is no reason to build something unless you can improve on what is already available in the marketplace. Function, ingenuity (coupled with customer service) always win in the long run.

OK, enough about us for this installment.  Our goal in these features is provide both interesting insights into the design process but to also impart valuable information that the readers of R6blog can use.  For this month, we will discuss something that is on a lot of racer’s minds this time of year – sponsorship.

Sponsorship is an interesting topic that is treated differently by many companies.  The original concept, which is lost on many riders, is one of a partnership.  In exchange for a product discount (or free product for some top riders) the sponsored rider needs to take his/her belief in the company products (this is very important) and impart that belief in other riders.  In the end, the relationship should be one in which the rider provides a value that is in excess of the investment (discount or otherwise) made by the company.

There is no doubt that a portion of sponsorship is given out of pure benevolence and a love for the sport.  Many of us who make products intended for the track are current or former racers and we know what the costs are to run a successful program.  However, having stickers on the side of most bikes does not produce the couple thousand dollars in sales that it takes to pay for free product.  This type of sponsorship really makes sense on a team or rider that finishes up front at the highest levels of racing, or for an individual who has the ability to send someone a regular stream of customers.  Woodcraft was fortunate enough to have our products on several different winners of AMA races this season, and we will be using those results in our advertising next season.

For the club racer there are definitely still opportunities available.  Woodcraft, like most companies, has several different tiers of sponsorship.  The discount level is proportionate to both the results on the track (credibility), reputation and character (this is really important in this small community), and the ability to create sales.  I am a strong proponent of building long term relationships as this builds trust and a valuable identity with the companies you work with.  How credible is the endorsement of a rider who is with his 3rd helmet company in 5 years?  I only represent companies I believe in and many of my personal sponsors have been with me for 10 years or more.

It doesn’t matter if you have an outstanding resume or not, any proposal should always be framed in terms of what you can do for the company.  If there are no winning race results yet, then think of what else you can do.  I had one rider years back who was a mid pack guy, but I was continually impressed by his ability to send us customers our way every month.  It doesn’t take too many “John Smith told me to call you up and order this” calls to impress a sponsor.  Other ideas involve handing out flyers, writing up product reviews on forums, and watching out for posts & such that you think a company would want to know about.

For any company worth it’s salt, constructive criticism is often even more valued than lavish praise.  We all need testimonials, but I also really appreciate a rider who gives me real feedback on how to make my products better.  I work hard to get it right the first time, but no one is perfect.  You can quickly get in the good graces of a company if you are willing to help offer useful feedback that improves a product.

If you are sending out resumes for the first time, remember that you have about 15 seconds to make an impression.  Resumes do not need to be 30 pages long.  It’s better to be clear and right to the point.  Take a few minutes to make your presentation look great.  Focus on what you can do for the company and make your proposal one that makes sense fiscally.  Many great sponsorship deals start out as an entry level discount that grows to something substantial as you prove yourself.  If the company is one that you truly believe in (if it’s not, then pass on it), take whatever you get offered to start.  You’ll then have opportunity to prove that you are a valuable asset who exceeds their expectations (a rare person indeed) and build a better program for the future.

Until next time, enjoy the holiday season…..

I really enjoy getting emails from users who have found the site useful. Here’s the latest I’ve receieved. This brilliant chap hails from the UK.
Hi , great blog! I  just joined! Here is my R6!
YZF-R6 2008 (Bob Chivers)
Specification
1.      R & G crash bungs (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
2.      Powerbronze double bubble screen (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
3.      R & G tailtidy (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
4.      Ohlins TTX36 rear shock with custom spring supplied, fitted and tuned by MH Suspension (My great mate Mark Hammond supplied the First 2009 TTX36 for an R6 in the country at the time, 2009 version came with finger adjustable compression and rebound, took away high and low adjustability in favour of the ‘conventional’… brilliant idea, very easy to adjust)
5.      Front Forks – Ohlins FPK 107 fork piston kit, Ohlins custom springs and Ohlins oil, supplied, fitted and tuned by MH Suspension  (This was again one of the first FPK107 valve kits in the country, mated to Ohlins springs and oil, it also knocks out the high and low compression and rebound circuits replacing it with a more conventional compression / rebound circuit, this single mod made one hell of a difference to the front once ‘Botley’ (Mark Hammond) worked his Isle Of Man TT magic on them, amongst many other of Botleys  TT clients is Mark Parrott )
6.      Ohlins Steering damper with Harris fitting kit supplied, fitted and tuned by MH Suspension (Usual Ohlins damper, however, the Harris mounting kit Botley reckons is the Cats Khahoonas)

Sexy!

7.      DataTool S4 green alarm system (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
8.      CRG CNC shortie (Clutch only) (I did have a pair of these levers, both clutch and brake, but the brake one got replaced with the Brembo jobby, I really like these levers, they really do help as I have small hands, but also, unlike other ‘levers’ CRG also do allsorts of accessories inc rearsets)
9.      Akrapovic complete 4-2-1 stainless Race system (Jamie at Calsport recommended  this system over the Evo titanium, also the race one over the road version, as it also carries a baffle, very handy for Castle Combe trackdays)

Rearsets, exhaust, brakes, suspension... Lucky!

10.   Graves smog block off plates (mandatory with PCV or false readings galore)(You really have to dump the AIS system and replace the system with these block off plates, or the PCV cant lock on to the air ratio as the AIS is dumping fresh air into the system ad hoc)
11.   Dynojet PowerCommander V with custom mapping (by JHS Racing)(I chose the PCV over the Bazazz system as its tried and tested, no disrespect to Bazzer it also wasn’t available at the time in the UK, James did a spot on job with the Mapping, usual high standard from JHS, I simply wouldn’t trust anyone else..)
12.   Dynojet Autotune Wide band Lambda sensor kit (set up by JHS Racing) (I really fancied this autotune setup, simply so I could add stuff at a later date and hopefully not have to use the dyno as its pretty much ‘tune as you ride’ also it allows me experiment with ‘map per gear’ on the PCV and hopefully slightly more HP)
13.   Dynojet quickshifter with secondary module (for top injectors) (I just HAD to get me one of these, simply because its so f*cking cool!… its also a relatively cheap mod it you have a PCV, I LOVE the clutchless roll on throttle upchanges)
14.   K& N free flow filter (Used the K&N as there is only one in the range, unlike BMC which have a road and a race version, the K&N does not have the restrictor plate as does the BMC road version, dunno why but it works well)
15.   NGK Iridium sparkplugs (In my opinion worth every penny, clean running, crisp throttle response, just generally a noticeable improvement over standard plugs, and worth taking the bike to bits for)
16.   InfoRad speed camera detection(mandatory twat detection… a must have and £22 quid of Ebay..bargain, also saved my arse many times!)
17.   Speedo Healer V4 (installed this to bring the speedo calibration back to accurate, and its ended up being awesomely accurate and thats checked with two sat navs !..also records highest top speed, but don’t tell plod)
18.   Brembo M4 monoblock callipers (Absolutely the best mod I have done, no question, you need custom spacers but they cost nothing compared to the gain, See JHS they did mine in 10 mins!, the braking is amazing now, progressive, confidence inspiring and they look the dogs)
19.   Probolt S/Steel calliper bolts (Jap bolts are crap and turn to white powdery shite 20 mins out of the showroom, also easy to cross drill for lockwiring, copperslip and torque them up and forget)
20.   JHS custom calliper spacers (You have to use these if you use the standard R6 discs as the ones supplied are 5mm too long as they are meant for brembo’s 320mm disc not the 310mm yam one)
21.   Brembo RCS 19 mastercylinder (The best master cylinder on the road, ratio adjustable so can be used with standard brakes, or twist the pivot pin red side up and its automatically set up for Brembo caliper.

22.   Gilles AS31GT rearsets (Super accurate shifting, just what you need with a quickshifter, no slop or wobble…sexy looking too)
23.   Gilles Titanium ACM rear axle nut (extravagant yes, but its never let me down, very clever locking system means it wont fall off, also being Titanium it wont rust… or scratch)
24.   ProBolt Titanium rear sprocket nuts (Saved almost 150 grams off the rear wheel as rotating mass, they don’t rust, and… they are sooo easy to spin off to change sprockets)
25.   Afam 46 tooth 520 pitch hard anodised rear sprocket (I was ‘sort of’ talked into one of these after being a Renthal man most of my life… as good as…if not better than the big R, also went one tooth up from standard on the back to aid ‘punch’)
26.   Afam lightweight 15 tooth 520 pitch front steel sprocket ( As above, but one tooth lower than standard… well pleased, a very cheap and effective mod)
27.   Renthal RR4 SRS 520 pitch chain (I really like these chains, over the years I have tried them all, they last very well and don’t stretch much, I chose the 520 pitch conversion as it saves a couple or one BHP)
28.   Rizoma Race Oil cap and safety wire bracket (I saw this in the Rizoma catalogue and I knew I just had to have one)
29.   Oberon CNC fuel cap (Beautifully looking CNC fuel cap, but a flawed genius, the O-rings have turned to slime twice in two years, however the customer service is brilliant, they admitted they had problems with fuel resistant o-rings, but hopefully its now sorted, but it still looks cracking I reckon.

Application

For 2006-2009 Yamaha R6 (Non S)

The purpose of this modification is to invert the shift pattern which makes shifting up faster because you don’t have to move your foot  over your shifter every time you want to shift up.

This mod does not work for S model Yamaha R6’s because the shift rod on the newer models does not go through the frame as it does on the “S” models. The R1 linkage also goes through the frame. To complete this mod on an R1 or R6S you will need an aftermarket shift rod or rear set that support GP shift.

This is the shift rod.

For 2006 and 2007 year R6’s you will also need to shave a tad bit off the middle fairing to have it fit correctly.

You will need a 10mm wrench for this modification.

Directions

1. Disconnect the 10mm bolt that connects the shift linkage to the transmission and remove it.

2. Pull the linkage off the rod and turn it 180 degrees.

3. Reattach the linkage, being sure to retighten the bolt.

TADA! Completo! Bravo!

There is no real downside to this modification. Another great mod in conjunction with this is rear sets. I recommend the Giles Rearsets because they save 2 lbs and have 13 position settings as well as accomodate the GP shift mod.

Y-6R6-S-0When I got home today there was an exciting package waiting for me. Inside I knew there was a beautiful integrated tail light from www.motodynamic.com. This is a good looking tail light! As I pull it out of the packaging the attention to detail is instantly obvious. All the plastic lines are crisp, the plastic is well smoked but not overly so, and the microprocessor is discreetly tucked away as not to interfere with the light. I can’t wait to get this installed.

The two features I love about the Motodynamics Integrated Taillight is the three quick flashes when braking and the sequential turn signals.

Since I am upgrading from the Clear Alternatives I am well aware that the closeness of the signals makes it harder for nearby drivers to quickly tell which direction I am signaling. The progressive signals make that much more obvious by systematically lighting the signal outwards which almost gives the light a wave look.

If there is one thing motorcyclists need to worry about in stop and go traffic it’s getting rear ended. I watch every car coming up behind me just to ensure I don’t end up as some F5000 Double Deluxe Duty’s morning snack. The Motodynamics Taillight helps warn incoming drivers you are there by blinking the brake light three quick times before going to solid red. Now instead of manually blinking my brakes I can pump a few times and know a very obvious brake light is flashing.

Motodynamics got the idea of sequential signals from traffic signals that inform drivers they need to change lanes. The signal is recognizable and obvious. Every cager will be able to to see and recognize it.

Installation is no different than any other taillight and the instructions included were far superior to the Clear Alternatives model I had previously installed. Essentially all you are going to do is:

  • Remove the rear fairing.
  • Pull out the old taillight and unplug it.
  • Install the new light being sure to match the correct left and right turn signal to the appropriate wire. This is done by turning on your left turn signal and making sure the attached wire triggers the left signal on the taillight.
  • Reinstall fairing.

It didn’t take me more than 45 minutes to install it slowly.

When you install your tail light it is also a great opportunity to add or remove the rear foot pegs. Removing foot pegs gives the bike a much cleaner look if you don’t carry passengers often.

Any Motodynamics unit comes with a six month warranty against manufacturing defects.

More purchase information can be found on motodynamic.com or you can email them at sales@motodynamic.com or call at (626) 618-2026.

Don’t forget to email us a great story of you on your Yamaha R6 for a chance to win this bad boy.

Or you can find Smoked Integrated Taillights on Amazon.