Bob’s 2008 Yamaha R6 with TONS OF AWESOME MODS!

Monday, August 9th, 2010
I really enjoy getting emails from users who have found the site useful. Here’s the latest I’ve receieved. This brilliant chap hails from the UK.
Hi , great blog! I  just joined! Here is my R6!
YZF-R6 2008 (Bob Chivers)
Specification
1.      R & G crash bungs (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
2.      Powerbronze double bubble screen (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
3.      R & G tailtidy (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
4.      Ohlins TTX36 rear shock with custom spring supplied, fitted and tuned by MH Suspension (My great mate Mark Hammond supplied the First 2009 TTX36 for an R6 in the country at the time, 2009 version came with finger adjustable compression and rebound, took away high and low adjustability in favour of the ‘conventional’… brilliant idea, very easy to adjust)
5.      Front Forks – Ohlins FPK 107 fork piston kit, Ohlins custom springs and Ohlins oil, supplied, fitted and tuned by MH Suspension  (This was again one of the first FPK107 valve kits in the country, mated to Ohlins springs and oil, it also knocks out the high and low compression and rebound circuits replacing it with a more conventional compression / rebound circuit, this single mod made one hell of a difference to the front once ‘Botley’ (Mark Hammond) worked his Isle Of Man TT magic on them, amongst many other of Botleys  TT clients is Mark Parrott )
6.      Ohlins Steering damper with Harris fitting kit supplied, fitted and tuned by MH Suspension (Usual Ohlins damper, however, the Harris mounting kit Botley reckons is the Cats Khahoonas)

Sexy!

7.      DataTool S4 green alarm system (supplied with the bike by George White Superbikes)
8.      CRG CNC shortie (Clutch only) (I did have a pair of these levers, both clutch and brake, but the brake one got replaced with the Brembo jobby, I really like these levers, they really do help as I have small hands, but also, unlike other ‘levers’ CRG also do allsorts of accessories inc rearsets)
9.      Akrapovic complete 4-2-1 stainless Race system (Jamie at Calsport recommended  this system over the Evo titanium, also the race one over the road version, as it also carries a baffle, very handy for Castle Combe trackdays)

Rearsets, exhaust, brakes, suspension... Lucky!

10.   Graves smog block off plates (mandatory with PCV or false readings galore)(You really have to dump the AIS system and replace the system with these block off plates, or the PCV cant lock on to the air ratio as the AIS is dumping fresh air into the system ad hoc)
11.   Dynojet PowerCommander V with custom mapping (by JHS Racing)(I chose the PCV over the Bazazz system as its tried and tested, no disrespect to Bazzer it also wasn’t available at the time in the UK, James did a spot on job with the Mapping, usual high standard from JHS, I simply wouldn’t trust anyone else..)
12.   Dynojet Autotune Wide band Lambda sensor kit (set up by JHS Racing) (I really fancied this autotune setup, simply so I could add stuff at a later date and hopefully not have to use the dyno as its pretty much ‘tune as you ride’ also it allows me experiment with ‘map per gear’ on the PCV and hopefully slightly more HP)
13.   Dynojet quickshifter with secondary module (for top injectors) (I just HAD to get me one of these, simply because its so f*cking cool!… its also a relatively cheap mod it you have a PCV, I LOVE the clutchless roll on throttle upchanges)
14.   K& N free flow filter (Used the K&N as there is only one in the range, unlike BMC which have a road and a race version, the K&N does not have the restrictor plate as does the BMC road version, dunno why but it works well)
15.   NGK Iridium sparkplugs (In my opinion worth every penny, clean running, crisp throttle response, just generally a noticeable improvement over standard plugs, and worth taking the bike to bits for)
16.   InfoRad speed camera detection(mandatory twat detection… a must have and £22 quid of Ebay..bargain, also saved my arse many times!)
17.   Speedo Healer V4 (installed this to bring the speedo calibration back to accurate, and its ended up being awesomely accurate and thats checked with two sat navs !..also records highest top speed, but don’t tell plod)
18.   Brembo M4 monoblock callipers (Absolutely the best mod I have done, no question, you need custom spacers but they cost nothing compared to the gain, See JHS they did mine in 10 mins!, the braking is amazing now, progressive, confidence inspiring and they look the dogs)
19.   Probolt S/Steel calliper bolts (Jap bolts are crap and turn to white powdery shite 20 mins out of the showroom, also easy to cross drill for lockwiring, copperslip and torque them up and forget)
20.   JHS custom calliper spacers (You have to use these if you use the standard R6 discs as the ones supplied are 5mm too long as they are meant for brembo’s 320mm disc not the 310mm yam one)
21.   Brembo RCS 19 mastercylinder (The best master cylinder on the road, ratio adjustable so can be used with standard brakes, or twist the pivot pin red side up and its automatically set up for Brembo caliper.

22.   Gilles AS31GT rearsets (Super accurate shifting, just what you need with a quickshifter, no slop or wobble…sexy looking too)
23.   Gilles Titanium ACM rear axle nut (extravagant yes, but its never let me down, very clever locking system means it wont fall off, also being Titanium it wont rust… or scratch)
24.   ProBolt Titanium rear sprocket nuts (Saved almost 150 grams off the rear wheel as rotating mass, they don’t rust, and… they are sooo easy to spin off to change sprockets)
25.   Afam 46 tooth 520 pitch hard anodised rear sprocket (I was ‘sort of’ talked into one of these after being a Renthal man most of my life… as good as…if not better than the big R, also went one tooth up from standard on the back to aid ‘punch’)
26.   Afam lightweight 15 tooth 520 pitch front steel sprocket ( As above, but one tooth lower than standard… well pleased, a very cheap and effective mod)
27.   Renthal RR4 SRS 520 pitch chain (I really like these chains, over the years I have tried them all, they last very well and don’t stretch much, I chose the 520 pitch conversion as it saves a couple or one BHP)
28.   Rizoma Race Oil cap and safety wire bracket (I saw this in the Rizoma catalogue and I knew I just had to have one)
29.   Oberon CNC fuel cap (Beautifully looking CNC fuel cap, but a flawed genius, the O-rings have turned to slime twice in two years, however the customer service is brilliant, they admitted they had problems with fuel resistant o-rings, but hopefully its now sorted, but it still looks cracking I reckon.

How To Modify Your Shifter For GP Shifting For 2006-2009 R6 (Non S)

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Application

For 2006-2009 Yamaha R6 (Non S)

The purpose of this modification is to invert the shift pattern which makes shifting up faster because you don’t have to move your foot  over your shifter every time you want to shift up.

This mod does not work for S model Yamaha R6′s because the shift rod on the newer models does not go through the frame as it does on the “S” models. The R1 linkage also goes through the frame. To complete this mod on an R1 or R6S you will need an aftermarket shift rod or rear set that support GP shift.

This is the shift rod.

For 2006 and 2007 year R6′s you will also need to shave a tad bit off the middle fairing to have it fit correctly.

You will need a 10mm wrench for this modification.

Directions

1. Disconnect the 10mm bolt that connects the shift linkage to the transmission and remove it.

2. Pull the linkage off the rod and turn it 180 degrees.

3. Reattach the linkage, being sure to retighten the bolt.

TADA! Completo! Bravo!

There is no real downside to this modification. Another great mod in conjunction with this is rear sets. I recommend the Giles Rearsets because they save 2 lbs and have 13 position settings as well as accomodate the GP shift mod.

Motodynamics Integrated Taillight Review

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Y-6R6-S-0When I got home today there was an exciting package waiting for me. Inside I knew there was a beautiful integrated tail light from www.motodynamic.com. This is a good looking tail light! As I pull it out of the packaging the attention to detail is instantly obvious. All the plastic lines are crisp, the plastic is well smoked but not overly so, and the microprocessor is discreetly tucked away as not to interfere with the light. I can’t wait to get this installed.

The two features I love about the Motodynamics Integrated Taillight is the three quick flashes when braking and the sequential turn signals.

Since I am upgrading from the Clear Alternatives I am well aware that the closeness of the signals makes it harder for nearby drivers to quickly tell which direction I am signaling. The progressive signals make that much more obvious by systematically lighting the signal outwards which almost gives the light a wave look.

If there is one thing motorcyclists need to worry about in stop and go traffic it’s getting rear ended. I watch every car coming up behind me just to ensure I don’t end up as some F5000 Double Deluxe Duty’s morning snack. The Motodynamics Taillight helps warn incoming drivers you are there by blinking the brake light three quick times before going to solid red. Now instead of manually blinking my brakes I can pump a few times and know a very obvious brake light is flashing.

Motodynamics got the idea of sequential signals from traffic signals that inform drivers they need to change lanes. The signal is recognizable and obvious. Every cager will be able to to see and recognize it.

Installation is no different than any other taillight and the instructions included were far superior to the Clear Alternatives model I had previously installed. Essentially all you are going to do is:

  • Remove the rear fairing.
  • Pull out the old taillight and unplug it.
  • Install the new light being sure to match the correct left and right turn signal to the appropriate wire. This is done by turning on your left turn signal and making sure the attached wire triggers the left signal on the taillight.
  • Reinstall fairing.

It didn’t take me more than 45 minutes to install it slowly.

When you install your tail light it is also a great opportunity to add or remove the rear foot pegs. Removing foot pegs gives the bike a much cleaner look if you don’t carry passengers often.

Any Motodynamics unit comes with a six month warranty against manufacturing defects.

More purchase information can be found on motodynamic.com or you can email them at sales@motodynamic.com or call at (626) 618-2026.

Don’t forget to email us a great story of you on your Yamaha R6 for a chance to win this bad boy.

5 Easy Yamaha R6 Mods

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

There are certain things that make the R6 better looking. They are easy and simple. I will lay them out for your here along with instructions on how to go about them.

DSCF4673

Decals Removed

1. Remove decals. I have always been a fan of de-decaling. The hideous R6 stickers were the first thing to go on my bike. Some like it some don’t.

How To Remove Decals:

  • Use a hair dryer to heat the decals and slowly peel them off. They should peel off with little residue, if not, you’re doing it wrong.

2. Fender eliminator. All can agree the R6 has the most ghastly stock fender. I bought a simple one off Ebay for $35.

Fender eliminators can be cheap and look sharp. This one was about $35 on ebay.

Fender eliminators can be cheap and look sharp. This one was about $35 on ebay.

How to uninstall a fender eliminator on the R6:

  • Remove the rear seat. Underneath the rear seat where the fender mounts to the bike there will be four nuts.
  • Unplug all the wires and unscrew the bolts.
  • The fender should drop right off.

Depending on which eliminator you bought your install will be different. Just know that certain eliminators and turn signal solutions are completely illegal and may get you in trouble with your local law enforcement.

3. Remove the rear foot pegs for a cleaner look.

Obviously if you carry people you don’t want to do this.

How to remove the rear foot pegs from an R6:

  • Remove the front and rear seat. The front seat comes off with two allen headed bolt that you can see once you pull the cushioning back. The rear seat comes off with the key under the rear fairing.
  • Remove the rear fairing.
  • Unbolt the footpegs.
  • Reassemble exactly as you removed.

4. Tank pad. Self explanatory. Clean the tank very well and apply very carefully. Don’t try to reapply unless the manufacturer specifically states you can.

5. Sliders are the most important functional upgrade in my opinion. There are a multitude of sliders ranging from really cheap crappy carbon look sliders to high quality racing sliders. If you are simply looking for quality I suggest the Shogun No Cut Sliders. You don’t have to worry about cutting your fairings and the sliders are high quality so no need to worry about them breaking.

03-05 Yamaha YZF R6 R6S Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

06-07 Yamaha YZF F6 Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

08-09 Yamaha YZF R6 Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

http://www.r6blog.com/5-easy-yamaha-r6-mods

Hamilton Custom Headers – Cat Delete

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Post by guest writer from globalmoto.net.

E-mail me at: info@GlobalMoto.net or call me at: (330) 289-9053.

I’ve been thinking/talking about this project ever since the folks at Yamaha brought us this stock header back in 2006

They certainly didn’t do us any favors with this welded on/unremovable boom box. If it were as simple as cutting it off and adding a Y-pipe I’d have done that a long time ago.

We experimented with it and found that it robbed the R6 of low to mid-range, right where the bike needs it most. Since we couldn’t get it to perform the way we wanted, I wasn’t going to put my name on something like that and the idea sort of “died on the vine.” I never stopped thinking about the idea and finally, we’ve built a better mouse trap.

Weights – 18 lbs for the OEM headpipe assembly with boom box (no muffler). After modification with our complete merge collector installed is 6 lbs, 9 oz. Weight savings of about 11 lbs, 8 oz.

Heat – There is a large difference in radiant heat with the boom box removed. The new modified system also cools down much, much quicker.

Please keep in mind that we DO NOT SELL A MID-PIPE. This is a header exchange program only! You send us a stock header that is straight with no cracks kinks or bends and we send you out an already modified stock header. It sells for $349, $20 for shipping. There are NO exceptions to this program. We are inundated with people asking to buy just the “mid-pipe” and do the modifications themselves. I wish it were that easy, it’s not.

We bought up some stock headers and have developed an exchange/core program. A customer can send us their acceptable stock header and we’ll send out an already modified header. Here are the details in the new modified header.

The merge collector unit will be a spring mount slip fit. Essentially we make a set of outlet spigots that get welded to the headpipe collectors. We join cut/grind down the OEM weld, and weld on these spigots so the essentially look more original/OEM. We then weld spring hooks onto the headpipe. The new Hamilton Merge Collector slips onto the outlet spigots and is secured with springs. The springs look trick, and also provide a little movement for the various differences that can occur from bike to bike. A little movement is also a good thing to prevent any possible breakage from binding.

The collector outlet also houses a CNC’d 304 series stainless steel 02 Bung to utilize the OEM closed loop system. The Merge Collector kit is very different from other options (from a pure engineering standpoint). It is a true merge collector that is blended (in the opposite way of theirs) for superior flow and seamless design. All thin gage 304 series stainless steel in A269 highly annealed tubing (the absolute best). All tig welded in a fully purged atmosphere using an argon/helium mixture. The production “main” collector tube will be vectored and mandrel bent in one piece. The secondary collector tube is also mandrel bent and blended with full merge cut for maximum flow/velocity. These are important details that add up to a very high quality product. In short, not some bogus Y-pipe! This will exit at the stock location 1.75 diameter and work with the OEM exhaust or any aftermarket slip-on. In addition, we’re going to offer an optional Race muffler kit with a 2.0 inlet adapter for a full blown race exhaust.

1) This is thin gage 304 series stainless steel in A269 highly annealed tubing (the absolute best). The stainless steel O2 bung that we use for it costs us $25 alone. I could buy a cheap steel one for a lot less but it’s not the right way to do it.

2) This is a true merge collector where the I.D matches exact to the shouldered O.D. of the pipe it meets up with. This is a far more involved process that has a clean, smooth internal bore, seamless design, and increases gas flow/performance. Simply welding it together (poorly, I might add) creates a turbulent effect inside of the header. This is simply exhaust manufacturing 101.

3) Look at the welds on the other products available?!! We are using a TIG stitch weld, a vastly superior method. These are TIG welded in a fully purged atmosphere using an argon/helium mixture.

4) Your not just getting a “mid-pipe.” Your getting a modified stock header that has been cut, grinded, and had a new set of outlet spigots that get welded to the headpipe collectors to accept the new merge collector.

Now I suppose I could MIG weld steel to the stainless stock header and then paint it black to hide the work. I could also cut angles on pipes and weld them together instead of having it vectored and mandrel bent. But I would never put my name on something like that. These are important details that add up to a very high quality product. If price is all you’re concerned with, then I agree, there are certainly cheaper options available. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for.

E-mail me at: info@GlobalMoto.net or call me at: (330) 289-9053.

E-mail me at: info@GlobalMoto.net or call me at: (330) 289-9053.