Mod Ideas

There are certain things that make the R6 better looking. They are easy and simple. I will lay them out for your here along with instructions on how to go about them.


Decals Removed

1. Remove decals. I have always been a fan of de-decaling. The hideous R6 stickers were the first thing to go on my bike. Some like it some don’t.

How To Remove Decals:

  • Use a hair dryer to heat the decals and slowly peel them off. They should peel off with little residue, if not, you’re doing it wrong.

2. Fender Eliminator. All can agree the R6 has the most ghastly stock fender. I bought a simple one off Ebay for $35.

Fender eliminators can be cheap and look sharp. This one was about $35 on ebay.

Fender eliminators can be cheap and look sharp. This one was about $35 on ebay.

How to uninstall a fender eliminator on the R6:

  • Remove the rear seat. Underneath the rear seat where the fender mounts to the bike there will be four nuts.
  • Unplug all the wires and unscrew the bolts.
  • The fender should drop right off.

Depending on which eliminator you bought your install will be different. Just know that certain eliminators and turn signal solutions are completely illegal and may get you in trouble with your local law enforcement.

3. Remove the rear foot pegs for a cleaner look.

Obviously if you carry people you don’t want to do this.

How to remove the rear foot pegs from an R6:

  • Remove the front and rear seat. The front seat comes off with two allen headed bolt that you can see once you pull the cushioning back. The rear seat comes off with the key under the rear fairing.
  • Remove the rear fairing.
  • Unbolt the footpegs.
  • Reassemble exactly as you removed.

4. Tank pad. Self explanatory. Clean the tank very well and apply very carefully. Don’t try to reapply unless the manufacturer specifically states you can.

5. Sliders are the most important functional upgrade in my opinion. There are a multitude of sliders ranging from really cheap crappy carbon look sliders to high quality racing sliders. If you are simply looking for quality I suggest the Shogun No Cut Sliders. You don’t have to worry about cutting your fairings and the sliders are high quality so no need to worry about them breaking.

03-05 Yamaha YZF R6 R6S Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

06-07 Yamaha YZF F6 Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

08-09 Yamaha YZF R6 Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

Post by guest writer from

E-mail me at: or call me at: (330) 289-9053.

I’ve been thinking/talking about this project ever since the folks at Yamaha brought us this stock header back in 2006

They certainly didn’t do us any favors with this welded on/unremovable boom box. If it were as simple as cutting it off and adding a Y-pipe I’d have done that a long time ago.

We experimented with it and found that it robbed the R6 of low to mid-range, right where the bike needs it most. Since we couldn’t get it to perform the way we wanted, I wasn’t going to put my name on something like that and the idea sort of “died on the vine.” I never stopped thinking about the idea and finally, we’ve built a better mouse trap.

Weights – 18 lbs for the OEM headpipe assembly with boom box (no muffler). After modification with our complete merge collector installed is 6 lbs, 9 oz. Weight savings of about 11 lbs, 8 oz.

Heat – There is a large difference in radiant heat with the boom box removed. The new modified system also cools down much, much quicker.

Please keep in mind that we DO NOT SELL A MID-PIPE. This is a header exchange program only! You send us a stock header that is straight with no cracks kinks or bends and we send you out an already modified stock header. It sells for $349, $20 for shipping. There are NO exceptions to this program. We are inundated with people asking to buy just the “mid-pipe” and do the modifications themselves. I wish it were that easy, it’s not.

We bought up some stock headers and have developed an exchange/core program. A customer can send us their acceptable stock header and we’ll send out an already modified header. Here are the details in the new modified header.

The merge collector unit will be a spring mount slip fit. Essentially we make a set of outlet spigots that get welded to the headpipe collectors. We join cut/grind down the OEM weld, and weld on these spigots so the essentially look more original/OEM. We then weld spring hooks onto the headpipe. The new Hamilton Merge Collector slips onto the outlet spigots and is secured with springs. The springs look trick, and also provide a little movement for the various differences that can occur from bike to bike. A little movement is also a good thing to prevent any possible breakage from binding.

The collector outlet also houses a CNC’d 304 series stainless steel 02 Bung to utilize the OEM closed loop system. The Merge Collector kit is very different from other options (from a pure engineering standpoint). It is a true merge collector that is blended (in the opposite way of theirs) for superior flow and seamless design. All thin gage 304 series stainless steel in A269 highly annealed tubing (the absolute best). All tig welded in a fully purged atmosphere using an argon/helium mixture. The production “main” collector tube will be vectored and mandrel bent in one piece. The secondary collector tube is also mandrel bent and blended with full merge cut for maximum flow/velocity. These are important details that add up to a very high quality product. In short, not some bogus Y-pipe! This will exit at the stock location 1.75 diameter and work with the OEM exhaust or any aftermarket slip-on. In addition, we’re going to offer an optional Race muffler kit with a 2.0 inlet adapter for a full blown race exhaust.

1) This is thin gage 304 series stainless steel in A269 highly annealed tubing (the absolute best). The stainless steel O2 bung that we use for it costs us $25 alone. I could buy a cheap steel one for a lot less but it’s not the right way to do it.

2) This is a true merge collector where the I.D matches exact to the shouldered O.D. of the pipe it meets up with. This is a far more involved process that has a clean, smooth internal bore, seamless design, and increases gas flow/performance. Simply welding it together (poorly, I might add) creates a turbulent effect inside of the header. This is simply exhaust manufacturing 101.

3) Look at the welds on the other products available?!! We are using a TIG stitch weld, a vastly superior method. These are TIG welded in a fully purged atmosphere using an argon/helium mixture.

4) Your not just getting a “mid-pipe.” Your getting a modified stock header that has been cut, grinded, and had a new set of outlet spigots that get welded to the headpipe collectors to accept the new merge collector.

Now I suppose I could MIG weld steel to the stainless stock header and then paint it black to hide the work. I could also cut angles on pipes and weld them together instead of having it vectored and mandrel bent. But I would never put my name on something like that. These are important details that add up to a very high quality product. If price is all you’re concerned with, then I agree, there are certainly cheaper options available. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for.

E-mail me at: or call me at: (330) 289-9053.

E-mail me at: or call me at: (330) 289-9053.

Renthal Rear SprocketsAfter riding your Yamaha R6 on the track and street for a few weeks, months, or years you may be asking yourself eventually “how do I get more power from my R6?”  The answer is easy and relatively cheap in comparison to other modifications that can be done for 1 horespower here or there.

Upgrading to a 520 Chain conversion with an X-Ring type chain can be  easy on the wallet and mechanically straight forward. It is a basic mod for all ranges of skill in the garage.  With a torque wrench, chain splitter, and a basic set of tools you should be able to swap the stock setup for the new gear in about 30 minutes (depending on your skill level, some can turn this into a four hour job).  You will also need to purchase a speedohealer in order compensate for the change in gearing.

What does the 520 chain conversion and new X-Ring chain do for you?  It does give you a significant increase in torque.  More importantly the lighter sprockets weigh less and the X-Ring chain has lower friction which gives you two things.

  • You decreasing the amount of unsprung weight on the motorcycle WikiPedia Definition of Unsprung Weight
  • You reduce the amount of HP that’s lost between the engine and the wheels due to drivetrain loss
  • You will increase available torque at low RPMs (wheelies anyone?)

The new combination of chain and sprocket will increase rear wheel available torque but not produce more engine/crank HP.  If you change the gearing down then you will get more bottom end drive from low speed and vice versa if you gear up you get more top speed.  By using the Gearing Commander you can figure out exactly the combination you desire for your particular riding.  If you need more power out of the corners or need that extra MPH on the top end this is the mod you have been looking for.  Not exactly a 30 Hp increase but it sure can feel like it if you gear it down a couple sprocket teeth!

Tools needed for the job:

$150 for both sprockets & chain
$100 for speedohealer
$50 for chain breaker / riveter

Good luck and ride safe!


Perfect example of a flush undertail.

A perfect example of a flush undertail.

The Yamaha R6 comes with a lot of ancillary stuff on the back of their bike that disrupts the visual and aerodynamic flow of the bike. Here is a guide on what to buy and how to install it. I find three things especially annoying on the R6 tail. The fender, the rear turn signals, and foot pegs. I don’t know about you but having someone on the back just ruins the ride for me so I took them off. The first step is to remove all this junk.

1. Take off both the seats. The rear removes with the key on on the left underside and the front has two bolts under the rear of the seat. You just need to push the rear of the seat up to see them.

2. Remove the rear top fairing.

3. From here you can easily see the tops of the pegs and remove them with an allen wrench. I am working on finding some peg plugs that will fill those remaining holes.

4. Under the rear seat and under the tool kit are four bolts that hold the fender in. Unsnap all the wiring and undo the bolts. The fender should come right off. That’s it for removing parts. It’s super easy.

Now for the fun part. Putting stuff on. Here is the list of things I put on my bike.

1. Clear Alternative Smoked Integrated Taillight from This turns your brake light into turn signals as well. It looks extremely sharp. You can find a specific review of it here.I paid $100 after shipping.

2. Fender eliminator from Ebay. Mine came with a plate light. I paid $40 with shipping. I think I did a pretty good job of bargain hunting. It pisses me off that companies can charge $150-$200 for a license plate holder. Ok, now for the install.


Each side of the tail light lights up when turn signals are activated.

1. The tail light goes in exactly how the old one came out. Just stick it in and make sure the notches at the back are lined up. Then hook up theelectronics and you are set. That’s all there is. When you wire up the tail light the brake lights (large plastic connector) plugs right in. The two yellow wires are for the turn signals. Connect the appropriate wire with the appropriate medium connector. There is a little bit of testing that has to be done to make sure you don’t wire the left signal to fire when you cue the right signal. I snipped the medium connectors off the stock fender to connect the wires. Here is what the instructions from Clear Alternative said.

Remove the old taillight and install the new taillight. The yellow wires are turn signal wires. Connect one yellow wire to each off colored wire in the stock connectors (don’t use the black wires) with the supplied red connectors. If you wish to slow the blinking rate install the resistors.

As you can see the directions are pretty unhelpful. Also, here is a good youtube video on how to install the Clear Alternatives Integrated Taillight for the R6.

Removing the fender and foot pegs gives the rear of the bike a great flush look.

2. The fender eliminator is the same way. Those four bolts you took out of the stock fender mount will now mount your new undertail. Your undertail should have been shipped with some nuts to sink the bolts into.

I don’t see any reason to replace the entire under-fairing as the lines are already quite nice.

And your off to the races!

These are fairly cheap and easy. Links on how to do them and where to get the parts will be provided ASAP.


1. Fender eliminator

2. Remove the R6 Decals on the fairings.

3. Remove rear pegs, replace with peg plugs. [click to continue…]