Part 1.

Expenses: One 2″ whole saw bit and one Magic Marker. I also used my hand drill, Dremel/sander bit, a 17mm socket/ wrench, and a phillips. Take a magic marker. Cut off 3/4s of it. Tape up the end, so it doesn’t leak all over. Take off the fairings. Take off one of the engine mount bolts. Put the marker in the hole backwards. This will mark the fairing when you put it back on. Put the fairing back on, and make sure the marker marks the spot. Take the fairing back off, and drill a pilot hole. Then, use the hole saw bit to finish the drilling. Next, use the Dremel or sandpaper to take off the edges. Take out the marker and mount the sliders. Put the fairings back on and your done.

Part 2.

After the last install, I thought I had posted the best frame wise way to do it, but after going to the track, I picked up on some things, so I’m going to tell you a new way. Your mid cowling has a main bolt near the top. You know you are looking at this bolt because it has a rubber washer on it. This bolt goes into you Delta Box. Take the mids off. Tap and Die that hole to the size of bolt you want to use for the Magic Mushrooms (frame sliders). Put your fairings back on and put the Mushrooms on. You have just installed frame sliders without cutting you fairings. I would recommend this if you are going to do moderate track time then sell the bike. It does not give the ultimate strength of the first method and it will make the grounding points different. ie: your bike might have a little less damage, or a little more when grounded. The grounding test has not been tested. I’m sure you have read the original technique on installing Magic Mushrooms, this can be found in the “How To” as well. I would recommend this for the full on race jockey. It will be able to take more impact (or impacts) because the bolt goes into the engine creating a more solid, immovable placement. Have fun putting them in, if your not having fun working on your bike you are in the wrong sport.


I don’t know about you but I detest paying extraordinary amounts for simple items. Undertails AKA fender eliminators are often far more expensive than should be reasonable. Here is how I went about and some other options.

I used ebay. I found a little known seller who makes undertails for all sorts of bike and bought one of his. It cost me $40 with shipping and included a license plate light, which I consider important. I just recieved the undertail in the mail and am very impressed with it. It’s sturdy, attractive, and a lot smaller than the giant contraption previously on my bike.

The other option you have is to make your own. This should be fairly simple.

1. Cut an outline of your fender mounting bolt holes.

2. Buy a very thin piece of sheet steel that you can bend with some force. Be sure that you have enough room on the steel to drill the holes for the mount as well as the bend and the holes for the license plate.


3. Drill holes.

4. Bend the steel to accommodate the license plate. You can probably get away with the plate not being completely vertical. 😉

The brake light should be sufficient lighting.

Hope that helps. Feel free to comment on how you did it.


This is the first mod I have done to my bike. I’m not really sure it counts as a “mod” exactly but still, it’s a modification of some sort. I consider it to be the most important.

First off, I picked the Shoguns for a few reasons.

1. They are simple. So simple in fact that I installed all of them (bar, frame, and swingarm sliders) in about 6 minutes.

Shogun Sliders

Shogun Sliders

2. Extremely tough. I was suspicious that the no-cut solution would be weak but after seeing the chunk of billeted aluminum I worry no more. The plastic is very thick and long. I am confident they would endure a significant slide.

3. They are the best selling sliders. That was important to me. In no way are they flashy. If you are looking for some bling, look elsewhere. These are to protect your bike, not much more.

5. Moderately inexpensive if you shop around. I purchased mine online. The entire set was about $115 after shipping. I definitely recommend the full set of sliders.

6. After installing them I laid the bike down to inspect the plastic for touching. There was zero contact with the ground on the left side and only the pipe would touch on the right side.

I bought mine from Surfside Moto in California for $115 after shipping. According to my research they were the cheapest for a full Shogun Slider Kit.


This was a piece of cake. All it consists of is screwing the sliders into the frame. A few words of caution though.

1. Be extremely sensitive to cross threading. If you cross thread you are seriously messing your frame up.

2. On the frame sliders make sure you have fully grabbed the frame threads with the bolt. On my last slider install I got a few threads on and then cranked on it. Turns out I stripped the soft aluminum threads. No bueno.

I will upload pictures of them on my bike as soon as possible.

Here is a simple warning to those considering purchasing some No Cut Carbon Fiber Sliders.


I purchased some from Amazon and instantly discovered three insurmountable problems.

1. The bolts are to short and can easily strip the threads on your frame. My frame now needs to be rethreaded.

2. The Left side uses a aluminum extension to avoid cutting the plastic. In a high speed layover this will bend or break, leaving your bike totally messed up.

3. The cut in the sliders will weaken the sliders so much that they might just bust off in the event of a wreck.

Do yourself a favor, don’t get some crappy sliders. You spent good money on your bike so get some good sliders.

Here are the sliders I recommend NOT getting.

Dont buy these.

Don't buy these.

On the upside, Shogun makes some really good sliders that can be had fairly reasonably on Ebay or Amazon.

03-05 Yamaha YZF R6 R6S Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

06-07 Yamaha YZF F6 Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black

08-09 Yamaha YZF R6 Shogun Frame Sliders No-Cut Black