tjUsing certain techniques can greatly increase the longevity and decrease the repair costs of your Yamaha R6. Here are a few of the methods I use to keep my baby in tip top order. I’ve included links to other articles that relate.

The first order of maintaining your motorcycle is not to crash. Ride within your abilities and the constraints of your surroundings.

DrivetrainSuper Bike

Since the Yamaha R6 is quite powerful one of the most vulnerable parts to strain is the drive train. This includes the transmission which is a wet clutch lubricated with the engine oil. Simply put, the less stress subject your drive train to the less wear it will have. [click to continue…]

1. Place the motorcycle on its kick stand.

2. Put a board under the kick stand to level the bike out.


The hole is where the oil filler cap goes. That is where oil goes in during an oil change.

The upper hole is where the oil filler cap goes. That is where oil goes in during an oil change. The dipstick is to the lower left of the case cover.

3. Find the circular beveled handle to the lower left of the clutch case cover on the right side of the bike. Twist to remove.

4. There should be oil all over the dipstick. The color is important. If it is a very light brown you don’t need to change your oil. If it is a dark brown, black, or the bike has 3000+ miles on it you need to change the oil.

5. Clean off the dipstick with a clean rag.

6. Reinsert and tighten.

7. Remove once more and check level. I prefer my oil level to be near if not at the high mark. If the oil level is below half of the dipstick you may get an oil warning light when your oil pressure rises.

8. Reinsert and tighten.

9. Nice work, you just checked your oil. Pretty soon you’ll be changing your spark plugs!

If you are wondering what kind of oil to use check this out.

Don't spill your oil in the ocean. The EPA gets PISSED!

Don't spill your oil in the ocean. The EPA gets PISSED!

Here are oil options rated (in my opinion) in order. Keep in mind these are all good oils, some are just a bit better than others at lubricating the clutch which makes for smoother shifting and less drive train stress.

1. Full Synthetic Silkolene Racing (this is a race oil)

2. Motul 5100 (smooths shifting!)

3. Maxum 4 Ultra Race Oil

4. Rotella T synthetic

5. Mobil1 High Performance GOLD CAP

There will probably be people that disagree with me for all sorts of good reasons but that is oil. It always comes with a debate and a lot of opinions.

What is your favorite oil for your baby?

First off, this happens a lot. Don’t be to hard on yourself. Second, you don’t HAVE to spend a ton of money ($400-$500) at a dealership getting the pan replaced if you don’t mind working on your bike yourself.

Here are your options.

1. Buy a new pan and have the dealership replace it. Estimated cost: $400+

2. Buy a used pan off Ebay and do the replacement work yourself: Estimated cost: $60~

3. Install a time-sert in the orginal pan’s stripped threads. You uninstall and reinstall the pan. Have an expert do the time-sert. Estimated cost: $70~

Don’t plan on a heli-coil. They are unreliable for the needs of an oil pan plug. Think about it. If this fails not only is your engine going to seize but you will have oil all over your back tire so it’s likely you will crash. NOT WORTH IT.

In later posts I will discuss how to go about #2 and #3.

Changing the oil on a bike is even more simple than in an old car. I will break it down into steps. There will be pictures to follow and a video at the bottom.

You will NEED.

1. 17mm wrench for oil pan bolt.

2. Oil catch pan. Enough for 4 quarts.

3. Preferably a race stand but not imperative.

[click to continue…]